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This is a stroboscope disc used to verify
the speed of a record player’s turntable.

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You can easily find these online and print
them out.

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Under fluorescent lighting, these alternating
white-black bars will appear stationary even

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though the turntable is rotating.

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This happens because the A/C electricity powering
the light is a 60 hz sine wave, and each time

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it crosses the zero line, the light briefly
goes dark.

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Essentially, fluorescent lights actually flash
120 times per second, and the spacing of these

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bars is calibrated so that if the turntable
is going the right speed, they will move the

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same distance as their width with each pulse
of light, which makes a blurred pattern appear

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that’s completely stationary.

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Slight variations in speed will cause the
pattern to appear to move.

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You can see this as I switch the turntable
between 33 and 45 rpm.

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You may have noticed a similar effect while
driving at night under common street lighting,

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particularly the orange-gold glow of high
pressure sodium lamps.

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These lights also pulse 120 times per second,
in the US at least, which can make slow-moving

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patterns appear on the wheels of vehicles
driving past you.

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Sometimes the patterns move backwards which
is particularly trippy.

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This stroboscopic effect is the primary reason
that some people are sensitive to fluorescent

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lighting.

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Though it’s not directly visible, it can
give some people headaches and cause eyestrain.

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But it’s important to note the the fluorescent-ness
of the light source is not what’s causing

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it.

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What I mean by this is that it’s very very
wrong to assume that all fluorescent lights

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produce a strobing effect like this.

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In fact, nearly all CFLs used in your home
don’t.

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Here’s the same disc on the same turntable
with a garden variety CFL providing illumination.

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This time, the disc’s lines just blur together.

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CFLs have worked like this for a looong time.

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In fact, here’s an old IKEA fluorescent
lamp.

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It’s so old it starts like this.

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(forced coughing)

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And yet, the lines still blur together.

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You might notice a very slight pattern in
there that looks stationary, but even an incandescent

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light will produce such a faint pattern.

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In reality, these CFLs are just as flicker-free
as the old bulbs of yore.

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But in an odd twist, many newer LED bulbs
are re-introducing this stroboscopic effect.

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Some are far worse than others, and first
let me say that I’m glad the CFL is being

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replaced.

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I am in no way trying to say that LED bulbs
are bad, and CFLs are somehow better.

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Of course, a huge reason to be pro LED is
the lack of mercury in the bulbs.

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And the list goes on--the slow warmup and
poor operation in cold weather of CFLs was

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annoying, and LEDs don’t suffer from these
problems.

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Poor color rendering indexes were common with
cheap CFLs which caused their perceived quality

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of light to be not-so-great, whereas LEDs
almost always have better color rendering

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characteristics.

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Dimmability of CFLs was generally questionable
at best, and new LEDs go so far as to mimic

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the warming effect that incandescent bulbs
naturally produce as their filaments burn

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less intensely.

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00:02:50,709 --> 00:02:54,799
There’s virtually no reason to hold onto
the incandescent lamp anymore.

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Even clear LED bulbs which look like they
have filaments are cheap and widely available.

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So to explain why CFLs don’t flicker and
LEDs sometimes do, it’s important to look

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at the electronics that drive each of these
technologies.

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Fluorescent lights, along with all other discharge
lamps such as sodium vapor lamps or metal

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halide bulbs, have a pesky electrical characteristic
known as negative resistance.

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Provide a set voltage to the lamp, and it
will consume more and more current until it,

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well basically explodes--or if it can manage
it, exhausts its electrical supply and trips

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a breaker.

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A ballast is therefore required to both strike
the arc and start the lamp, and most importantly

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to limit the current it can receive and keep
things nice and safe.

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In older fluorescent fixtures, this ballast
was nothing more than a specialized inductive

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transformer, so-called magnetic ballasts.

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These are what is responsible for the humming
or buzzing sound in older fixtures.

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A magnetic ballast sends the same 60 hz electricity
to the tube, but with a limit in place.

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This means the light will pulse on and off
120 times per second, which generally isn’t

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directly perceptible, but can cause eye strain
in sensitive individuals.

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Now, magnetic ballasts have two huge drawbacks.

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One, they’re generally bulky, and two, the
fact that they send straight AC current to

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the tube means the tube doesn’t run as bright
as it could because it spends a not-insignificant

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period of time producing no light at all.

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The pauses in light production reduce its
overall light output considerably.

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When the Compact Fluorescent Light came along,
the compact nature of these compact bulbs

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meant less actual glass tube was available
in such a compact space.

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To compact a 16 watt 2 foot linear tube into
a space as compact as an ordinary light bulb

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required some creative compacting action in
the form of glass bending acrobatics.

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Compact.

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First was the curly-q nature of the tube itself.

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Forming the glass in a repeating spiral pattern
increases its surface area tremendously, while

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still confining it into a small volume.

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Then there was the problem of the ballast.

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Remember, magnetic ballasts are bulky and
heavy.

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A better solution was needed both to overcome
size constraints and to increase the light

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output of such a small lamp.

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Enter the electronic ballast.

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These guys work entirely differently from
magnetic ballasts and were, uh what’s the

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word, oh, compact and lightweight.

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Electronic ballasts work similarly to the
switched-mode power supplies you find in virtually

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everything today.

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Their first goal is actually to convert the
incoming 60 hz AC power to DC, where it’s

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filtered with a capacitor.

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The ballast then converts this DC into very
high frequency AC power, around 20 thousand

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hertz.

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00:05:24,939 --> 00:05:27,479
It’s this high frequency power that’s
sent to the tube.

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The phosphors that line the inside of the
glass don’t react instantly to UV emissions

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from the mercury vapor.

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In fact, there’s a delay between when they
stop receiving energy from the excited mercury

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molecules and when the stop emitting visible
light.

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You can actually see this--the green phosphor
is the usually the slowest, and you might

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have caught a slight green flash of light
when turning a off a light fixture with a

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CFL if you’ve ever moved your eyes right
at the same time.

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You see this because the red and blue phosphors
stop producing light in a tiny fraction of

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a second, but the green phosphor hangs around
a little longer.

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Anyway, the high frequency AC entering the
tube of a CFL is literally too fast for any

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of the phosphors, and the delayed action bridges
the gap between pulses.

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The result is that the light provides nearly
constant illumination, and the stroboscopic

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effect is essentially eliminated.

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Which can be proven by using one of these
do-dads.

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Most newer linear fluorescent fixtures also
use an electronic ballast.

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Even the old fashioned T12 tube will see a
significant increase in light output and efficiency

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if high frequency A/C switching is applied.

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For this reason, ceiling light fixtures using
linear tubes are nearly always equipped with

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an electronic ballast these days.

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Meanwhile, LED bulbs require a different kind
of circuitry to make them work.

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LEDs only work with direct current, so for
a bulb on an AC supply, this AC needs to first

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be rectified into DC using a bridge rectifier.

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It’s not as simple as sending DC power through
the chips, though.

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Without the proper voltage, the LEDs with
either be instantly destroyed or they won’t

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work at all.

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See LEDs have a very narrow range of operating
voltage, bumping it up by as little as half

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a volt will dramatically increase current
consumed.

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Drop it much below and it won’t light up
at all.

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Because of this, they also need a ballast
of sorts.

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Usually these are referred to as drivers.

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The most important thing the driver has to
do is limit the current that passes through

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the chips.

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Without a way to limit the current, any voltage
above an LED chip’s forward voltage will

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cause an exponential increase in current flow,
which will make the diode run extremely hot

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and severely shorten its life.

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In many conventional LED bulbs meant to replace
a 60 watt incandescent, there will be 9 or

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10 chips, each rated around a watt.

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These are usually arranged in a circle, and
are attached to a heat sink.

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The heat sink absorbs the heat they produce,
and spreads it out over a wide area.

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This bulb contains nine chips.

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Each of these chips actually contains three
diodes in one package, so there’s a total

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of 27 diodes arranged in series.

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Most of the blue diodes used in white LED
chips--the yellow circle is a phosphor which

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converts some of the blue light into red and
green, thus producing apparently white light--have

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a voltage drop of just over 3 volts.

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The driver therefore needs to produce at least
81 volts, and indeed it produces about 85.

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The driver must also limit the current going
through this chain of diodes to ensure they

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don’t overheat and waste energy.

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It also uses a large capacitor hidden in the
base to store and release some energy between

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the pulses of AC power coming from the socket
through bridge rectifier.

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This helps to eliminate the stroboscopic flicker.

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This capacitor is rather large and it’s
one of the biggest component of the driver.

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But there’s also a way to cheat a little
bit.

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LEDs can be driven off a direct voltage supply
if the voltage is equal to the voltage drop

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across the LED chip.

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00:08:32,669 --> 00:08:36,790
Many so-called “filament” LED lamps are
designed with a bunch of blue diodes in series

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along a glass rod covered in the yellow phosphor,
and the voltage drop across them adds up to

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just about the same as the AC line voltage
powering the lamp.

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If you dim one of these, you can see the individual
diodes along the filament’s structure.

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These tiny diodes will also have a voltage
drop of about 3 volts, and since 120 volts

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is what’s coming into the socket here in
the US, that could be divided across 40 individual

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diodes.

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Each of these rods has 20 diodes or so in
a line, and two rods are wired in series,

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with another series-pair being in parallel.

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In European countries running on 230 volts,
all four of these rods will be wired in series.

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This cheat is what allows the driver to be
so small that it can be crammed into just

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the space inside the socket.

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This creates a beautiful bulb that you might
not even know it’s an LED unless someone

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told you.

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But there’s one huge drawback.

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There’s so little space for the driver that
it doesn’t really do all that much.

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In reality, nearly all it does is use a bridge
rectifier to convert the AC into pulsed DC.

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That’s just taking this waveform and flipping
the bottom half back up.

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This means these bulbs will often exhibit
stroboscopic flicker just as bad or worse

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as a fluorescent bulb running from a magnetic
ballast.

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In fact, that footage from earlier?

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It was from this bulb, just with the color
temperature messed up a bit.

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And now, a note from the editor’s desk.

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Oh, hello, I’m the editor, and this is my
desk.

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I’d just like to clarify that I’m sure
the driver is doing more than just rectifying

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the AC into pulsed DC.

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00:10:03,460 --> 00:10:07,460
It’s actually a complicated little thing
with a driver chip, an inductor of sorts,

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and other goodies.

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00:10:08,460 --> 00:10:11,540
What’s more likely the cause of the flicker
is simply that the driver’s tiny little

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filter capacitor, a requirement with the driver
concealed in the socket, can’t store enough

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charge to provide completely steady DC voltage
throughout the system as the incoming AC voltage

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crosses the zero line.

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00:10:22,950 --> 00:10:26,590
The system voltage thus dips slightly between
each incoming pulse.

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00:10:26,590 --> 00:10:31,060
This is also probably the cause of the slight
flicker produced by the CFL, but the immensely

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larger filter capacitor is able to provide
much more stable DC voltage to the rest of

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the ballast.

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00:10:36,760 --> 00:10:40,370
In regards to the number of diodes along the
glass, I’m sure that’s geared towards

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line voltage as it is common for European
bulbs to have all the rods wired in series,

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but the driver is probably still providing
a different voltage for them.

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00:10:47,580 --> 00:10:51,080
I’m thinking it just makes the design of
the driver a whole lot simpler and cheaper

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00:10:51,080 --> 00:10:54,280
if it’s got to produce roughly the same
voltage as it receives.

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00:10:54,280 --> 00:10:57,920
If we have a qualified electrical engineer
in the comments, please do tell us if I’ve

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got this all wrong.

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00:10:58,950 --> 00:11:02,790
I’m not even going to get into how these
bulbs work with dimmers because there’s

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enough in there for a whole other video.

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00:11:04,890 --> 00:11:06,630
So then, here’s my point.

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00:11:06,630 --> 00:11:10,530
If you are an individual with photosensitive
epilepsy who has legitimately been affected

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by fluorescent lighting in the past, this
type of LED bulb probably isn’t for you.

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00:11:15,670 --> 00:11:20,020
But if you’ve casually avoided compact fluorescent
lights believing them to cause eye strain

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00:11:20,020 --> 00:11:24,380
and you’ve been around these lights and
haven’t noticed a problem, perhaps it wasn’t

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the, as I said, fluorescent-ness of the light
that caused your headaches.

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00:11:28,860 --> 00:11:33,150
As I’ve demonstrated, most CFLs produce
light just as well--meaning consistently and

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without flicker--as an incandescent bulb.

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But some newer LED lamps actually produce
really strong strobing light.

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If these don’t affect you, that’s great!

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00:11:41,770 --> 00:11:46,050
But it also means that perhaps you shouldn’t
have been so averse to using the CFL.

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00:11:46,050 --> 00:11:50,180
One easy way to tell if a bulb has high flicker
is by bringing a smartphone camera right up

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to the bulb.

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With bright light the camera has to increase
its shutter speed a lot, which when combined

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with the way it captures the light via a rolling
shutter, will make alternating bright dark

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bands appear all over the image.

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00:12:02,050 --> 00:12:05,570
If bands are barely visible, then the flicker
is very minor.

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00:12:05,570 --> 00:12:06,570
Me again.

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00:12:06,570 --> 00:12:09,950
I discovered while shooting the B-roll for
this video that the old IKEA bulb exhibits

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00:12:09,950 --> 00:12:12,520
less flicker than an incandescent.

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00:12:12,520 --> 00:12:15,520
You can even see that going back to the stroboscope
disc footage.

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00:12:15,520 --> 00:12:18,290
These pictures shot with my phone confirm
it.

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00:12:18,290 --> 00:12:21,850
While we’re looking at pictures, light bulb
manufacturers have figured out how to produce

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00:12:21,850 --> 00:12:26,970
flexible filaments, and this one on display
in a retailer is shockingly bad!

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However, one cool thing about the flexible
“filament” is that you can see the printed

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circuit in the dark portion provided by the
absurd flicker of the bulb, and you can see

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here that the diodes are wired as two series
chains, with each trace skipping every other

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diode.

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This means there are two parallel circuits
in each piece of filament spaghetti.

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Now, I’ve long maintained a personal theory
that the folks most opposed to the compact

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fluorescent were really more averse to the
blueish light of daylight color temperature

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bulbs.

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In fact, I hate those things.

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I have a whole drawer full of them because
the previous owner of my place loved them,

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and I just can’t stand the coldness of their
light.

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I won’t go so far as to say they give me
a headache, but I dread being around them.

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Because a well-made warm-white balanced CFL
is often indistinguishable from an incandescent,

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particularly if the bulb is hidden behind
a shade, these people might have never noticed

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that they were under fluorescent lighting
unless it was a cool white or daylight color

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temperature, where it couldn’t possibly
be an incandescent.

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But that’s just conjecture.

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In reality, the CFL is on its way out, and
I’m happy to hear it.

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So many great designs of LED bulbs are on
the market today, not even mentioning smart

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bulbs or color-changing bulbs that are only
possible with LEDs inside.

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But the CFL was a great innovation that helped
us start saving energy at home years before

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LEDs came down in cost.

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And if people just took the effort to recycle
them, the mercury wouldn’t have been much

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of a concern.

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But I’ll admit, a 100% recycling rate is
a pipedream.

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Best avoid the problem all together.

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Thanks for watching.

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I hope you learned something interesting today!

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I’m closing this video out with a thank
you and announcements.

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To my subscribers, wow, I’m so thrilled
this channel has passed 35 thousand!

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It still doesn’t seem real.

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Having a successful YouTube channel has always
been a dream of mine, and it’s slowly becoming

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reality.

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But as you know, making videos
is really hard.

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I’m doing my best to keep videos like this
headed your way, but I work full time and

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it’s hard to do two things at once.

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Which is why starting at the end of November,
I’m gonna stop doing two things at once.

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I’m gonna concentrate on videos.

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Hopefully I’ll be making weekly videos by
the start of next year, as I’ll have 4 days

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a week to do this, and not just 2 if I’m
lucky.

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There’s a lot of stuff up in this noggin
and eventually it will make its way out and

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to your eyeballs and ears.

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If all goes to plan, my next video will be
on Philo Farnsworth and the invention of electronic

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television.

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I’m overwhelmingly flattered that some people
have asked if I have a patreon page.

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Well, I wanted wait and see if these types
of videos could earn me a following.

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00:14:49,890 --> 00:14:52,470
Apparently they have and now, I do have a
patreon.

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In fact, it’s right over there.

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I’m really new to this whole thing and don’t
really know what I’m doing, but if you’d

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like to become a patron you will immediately
be rewarded with thanks and good vibes.

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00:15:02,490 --> 00:15:06,140
My biggest struggle right now is finding time
to do more management stuff, like make playlists

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and set up a Patreon.

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But if it works, I’ll be spending all of
my time making videos for you.

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Thanks for watching.

